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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.